Dirbant su visais statybiniais mišiniais, svarbu mišinio tirštumas – su kelne ar glaistykle pakabinus mišinio, jis neturėtų dribti ant žemės, varvėti ir pan. Tačiau nereikėtų naudoti ir per daug tiršto – sunkiau dirbti, greičiau sustings, ir reikės permaišyti su vandeniu iš naujo.
Geriausias rezultatas pasiekiamas, jei sienos „plikos“ iki mūro.
Jei sienos ne gipskartonio ir ne monolito – t.y. paviršius pakankamai įgeriantis drėgmę, o tinkavimo paviršius pakankamai didelis galime naudoti kalkių skiedinį (atsivežtą iš betono gamyklos) – pigesnis nei gipsinis. Šį skiedinį, prieš naudojant reikia permaišyti betono maišykle su cementu (labai nedideliu santykiu).Tinkavimas. Prieš pradedant tinkavimo darbus, reikėtų susiklijuoti tinkavimo profiliukus – taip užtikrinsime sienų lygumą. Pirmiausia viename sienos kampe priklijuojame profiliuką (naudodami gipsinį tinko mišinį ir glaistyklę) – turi būti tiksliai vertikalus pagal gulsčiuką. Tuomet tą patį atliekame kitame tos pačios sienos kampe. Tarp šių profiliukų ištempiame siūlą – sienos tiesumui užtikrinti.
Tuomet į tarpą tarp šių šoninių profiliukų už siūlo priklijuojame tarpinius profilius (maždaug metro ar kiek didesniu atstumu vienas nuo kito) taip, kad jie vos liestųsi prie siūlo (geriausia siūlą atitraukti per 1 mm nuo visų profilių). Tuo pačiu reikia žiūrėti, kad visi profiliai būtų tiksliai vertikalūs pagal gulsčiuką (geriausia 2 m). Klijuojame taip: (jei tinko sluoksnis bus storas (tuomet tinkavimas atliekamas keliais sluoksniais) – kas 10, 15 cm, jei plonas - rečiau) „užtaškuojame“ su glaistykle gipsinį mišinį, ant tų taškų uždedame profilį ir su glaistykle priglaistome, kad profilio briauna būtų švari. Taip reikia apsiklijuoti visas patalpos sienas ir palikti stingti (geriausia iki sekančios dienos). Taip pat galime susiklijuoti tinkavimo kampinius profiliukus, nors ir nebūtina (galutiniame rezultate kampas būtų apvalesnis nei naudojant glaistymo kampinį profiliuką). Jei jų nenaudojame, tuomet reikia prisitvirtinti lygias lentas iš vienos kampo pusės (jei tai langas, tvirtiname ant angokraščių). Vėliau, kai visas patalpos sienas ištinkuosime, tą patį lentų tvirtinimą reikės atliktį iš sienos plokštumos pusės ir tinkuoti angokraščius, su pasidarytu šablonu braukiant iš vienos pusės per langajuostę, iš kitos pusės – per lentą.
Sekančią dieną galime pradėti tinkavimo darbą. Pirmiausia reikėtų šiek tiek susišlakstyti sienas vandeniu. Tuomet paruoštą kalkių – cemento mišinį tinkavimo kelne reikia „užmėtyti“ ant sienos, užpildant tarpus tarp profilių (šiek tiek storiau nei profilio briauna).
Po to su liniuote iš apačios į viršų užbraukiame šį tinko mišinį, nuimant perteklių. Tai reikia atlikti, kol mišinys nepradėjo stingti – kad jį dar būtų galima panaudoti tolimesniam darbui. Užbraukus, galime palikti iki kitos dienos, kai tinkas jau bus sustingęs. Tuomet pasiruošiame tinko mišinį užtrynimui – per sietą prakošiame kalkių skiedinį, kad visi akmenukai būtų pašalinti. Šį perkoštą kalkių skiedinį sumaišome su šiek tiek cemento (labai nedideliu santykiu) ir naudojame užtrynimui su trintuve. Darbas atliktas, prieš atliekant tolesnę sienos apdailą, reikia palaukti, kad sienos visiškai išdžiūtų.
Gipsiniai tinko mišiniai naudojami įvairiems paviršiams – ir įgeriantiems, ir neįgeriantiems. Tačiau ant monolitinių paviršių negalima naudoti kalkinių skiedinių – blogas sukibimas būtų, vėliau tinkas perdžiūtų ir atšoktų. Gipsinis tinkas šiuo metu ypač populiarus dėl galimybės naudoti specialią techniką, kuri gerokai pagreitina visą darbą. Toks tinkavimas brangesnis, tačiau sutaupoma laiko ir lėšų glaistant – lygesnis paviršius.
Sienų (lubų) lyginimas. Jei sienos nėra „plikos iki mūro“, dažniausiai reikia sienas palyginti (kad atitiktų šiuolaikinius standartus). Sienos prieš tai turi būti tinkamai paruoštos – bet kokie kalkiniai dažai turi būti pašalinti. Jei sienos buvo nudažytos aliejiniais dažais, reikia jas padengti specialiu rupiu gruntu. Kitu atveju užtenka padengti giluminiu gruntu. Padengus vienokiu ar kitokiu gruntu paviršius, su gulsčiuku (2 metrų ilgio) reikia skirtingomis kryptimis patikrinti kiekvieną sieną. Tuomet plačia glaistykle su rankena užtepame gipsinio tinko ten, kur matome nelygumus ir su liniuote braukti ta kryptimi (iš apačios į viršų ar iš kairės į dešinę), kuria pastebimi didžiausi nuokrypiai. Geriausia, jei liniuotė (reikėtų naudoti kuo ilgesnę – pagal lyginamo paviršiaus dydį) turi ir spiritinį gulsčiuką – tuomet aiškiau matysis, kur kiek tinko užmesti. Užbraukus, reikia šiek tiek palaukti ir užglaistyti lyginamas vietas su glaistykle, šiek tiek padrėkinant, kad glaistyklė geriau slystų. Jei norima pasiekti tik vizualaus lygumo (lubos pvz, ar atviros sienos, prie kurių joks baldas nestovės ir nebus tvirtinamas, nereikės klijuoti plytelėmis), tuomet gulsčiukas ir nereikalingas. Beje, sienoms šalia langų (siena su langu ar jei langas kampe - statmena siena) ypač akių lygyje reikėtų daugiau skirti dėmesio – labiausiai matosi visi nelygumai.
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